Відео

You're welcome 😊

On. And on cooling mode.

I appreciate that. Thanks again!

Absolutely YES!

Here's a video on duct calculating duct sizes. ua-cam.com/video/1r3zUzhnqk0/v-deo.html You will need to purchase this kit.... amzn.to/4eMja71

Lines are welded together so heat transfers that way. Contents inside the lines NEVER touch each other.

@SaveGreenHere makes sense. Thanks

Thanks.

Online at Ability Refrigerant

Depends

$100-$200 a pound in my area. As a reference, they can buy a 25lb tank for under $300

It was a press release where they said they would send a free replacement. It should cost you nothing.

Well, if you supply air to any room, you also need a return. Not having a return is like running your unit with a window open. The air will simply not return to the unit to be re-conditioned. That being said, doing this in a garage is actually a DANGER because of possible carbon manoxide, and fumes such as paints, gasoline, and others. Your best solution is to install one of these for under $400..... amzn.to/3KSguY1 Search my youtube, as we have various videos on them.

You will notice a HUGE difference!

Yes, up and running, and only in cooling mode!

Glad I could help! And thanks for subscribing!

Yes, and in cooling mode!

Yes, never overtighten.

You're welcome

Do a proper vacuum. You can wait 45 min to an hour just to be safe but the best method is to just get one of these..... amzn.to/45zfYYp

Running and in cooling mode!

Do a proper full vacuum! You MUST use this....... amzn.to/3VUYVNh

@@SaveGreenHere how about the VG64?

Friction loss. You will see it on the ductulator. A handy tool every duct layout person should have....... amzn.to/3xsyg0Q

no don't charge that much. those are max pressures for the system. you will blow something up if you charge that high. Charge to 38 degress F on the R-410a scale on the low pressure gauge (this should come out to around 110-120psi)

Make sure the unit is running and then read the gauges. With the system off, it will be at a higher PSI.

Yes! Gloves: amzn.to/3Rfg5SL Faceshield: amzn.to/3VATnaC

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You need to check what type of refrigerant you have, as many refrigerants have been phased out over time and replaced.

@@SaveGreenHere I have R32 refrigerant.

Yes. Machine is off. Technically the electrical doesnt even need to be connected yet. This is just to make sure that there is no air or moisture in the line and also that there are no leaks. If the pressure were to rise you either have a lot of moisture in the the line or there is a leak at one of your connection points and air is getting in to the the line.

Not recommended. You don't want pool chemicals going through these heaters.

Yes you can. You will see the wire ends, and just connect them to this, and you can then plug it....... amzn.to/3ReXLcx

You're welcome

What do you see on the gauges? Does the fan work?

Turn ALL Indoor units ON. The air temperature should be the SAME on all 3 Indoor units. If not, Gas Charge needs to be checked and corrected. If your pipe lengths are within Fujitsu requirements, then the Gas Volume on the Outdoor Name Plate is the correct weight. Multi splits will have a Refrigerant Liquid Reciever that has some extra Gas for High Demand when units are turned ON, so the Name Plate Gas Volume is IMPORTANT. 🇦🇺

Appreciate it!

One million percent agree! If you use this link, they give you an extra $100 credit aklam.io/w1U6Ld

Sure!

Nice! Just stay away from bleach as it corrodes metals at a super high rate. Use vinegar. This one you just add to water as it is concentrated...... amzn.to/454Zy9Z

@@SaveGreenHere Thank you. I'll switch to vinegar as you suggest.

Vinegar works well. Alternatively, you can try this and it does it automatically. Ones less thing to worry about, and it can save many households a single service call fee. A few that I know have had it installed, and swear by it........ amzn.to/3wPgZPe

@@SaveGreenHere Oh that is cool. Thank you!

Glad you like it! I have had mine 4+ years now.

You're welcome!

If you add another unit, make sure you do not use the same electrical circuit.

Not sure they appear as a tax credit qualifier. You may want to contact the manufacturer. I did another video where there is ample info....... ua-cam.com/video/i_ZiIuHh2iE/v-deo.html

Very common, just not very common because of many wrong installation practices. Check out their site...... doucetteindustries.com/ We estimated between 10% to 20%, depending on the age of the HVAC system. The older more inefficient HVAC systems, saved more, due to their inefficiencies. In my case, I would completely turn off my water heater at the breaker panel, from the first of May until November end of November, so like 7 months. This of course, being in a very hot climate in South Florida. So easy to say, 60% to 70% water heater savings. Seven months of the water heater totally disconnected from electricity. The other months, it probably made the water heater work less, as the water coming into the tank was already pre-heated. But, this is dependent on the geographical location. The hotter the climate, the more savings, because the HVAC system runs more. It's that simple. You can see a seminar here-----> ua-cam.com/video/i_ZiIuHh2iE/v-deo.html

Hopefully you used this coupon--->aklam.io/pEPoxw it gives you $100 coupon which is just over 3 months of the $30 service plan. They should contact you soon, it all depends on the workload in your area.

None whatsoever. The issues I have seen is poor installation, and the refrigerant lines connection AFTER it leaves the condensing coil, which is totally wrong because by then, the refrigerant line is not as hot. You need the heat transfer to occur BEFORE the refrigerant even enters the coil. That not only give you the hottest water, but also allows the heat exchanger to help the air conditioner gain more efficiency, because by then, the condensing coil has less heat to remove, because the heat exchanger already took some of that heat and transferred the heat to the water line. Hope this makes sense.

Awesome! Before starting, no hoses should be connected to your gauge set and both valves on the gauge set should be closed. 1. Connect blue hose to low side of manifold gauge set. (amzn.to/3wSNpIA) 2. Connect blue hose with adapter to mini split. (amzn.to/3X461jc) 3. Open low side manifold valve slightly. Refrigerant will bleed through manifold and out the middle port while you do this. 4. Close low side manifold valve. You have just purged air out of the blue hose and low side of manifold. 5. Connect yellow hose to refrigerant cylinder and manifold. DO NOT OPEN CYLINDER VALVE. 6. Connect vacuum pump to high side of manifold. (This dual stage 1/2 HP is perfect for mini splits.... amzn.to/3VfHPsU) 7. Open ONLY the high side manifold valve. 8. Turn on your vacuum pump. You are now evacuating air from your cylinder hose and the rest of your manifold. It doesn’t take long. 9. Close high side manifold valve. 10. Turn off the vacuum pump. You are now free to open the low side manifold valve and cylinder valve to add refrigerant per instructions for recharging the system.

Check your error code log. Google the pc03 error code for mini split, using the brand.